Day326: Tanger “Void”
In Morocco, I spent most of my stays in “Riads” rather than standard hotels. A Riad is a traditional Moroccan house with a central courtyard, renovated into a guesthouse. What I love most about them is how they allow you to truly feel the local way of life. Originally, the term “Riad” referred to grand manors featuring courtyards with fountains and trees, while simpler courtyard houses were distinguished as a “Dar.” However, as more of these homes were converted into accommodations, the word Riad—with its more elegant ring—became the standard marketing term. Today, it has permeated the language as a general noun for this type of stay.
In a Moroccan residence, the courtyard is the most vital space. With almost no windows on the exterior walls, this central void draws light and ventilation into the heart of the home. Most are covered with a simple translucent roof, allowing for a relaxing atmosphere even on rainy days. The occasional sound of a bird wandering into the space is incredibly soothing.
As the place where guests are welcomed and families gather, the courtyard is often the most gorgeous part of the house, adorned with geometric tiles, intricate carvings, and vibrant textiles. It’s also wonderful that the rooftops feature spacious terraces the same size as the building footprint—perfect for hanging laundry or taking in the surrounding views.
The reason a Riad have become so prevalent as a guesthouse is likely due to their architectural logic: a series of private rooms lining a corridor that encircles a courtyard is identical to the structure of a hotel, making them exceptionally easy to renovate. Furthermore, because their scale is difficult to convert into large-scale luxury hotels, many remain reasonably priced. For someone like me who usually stays for long periods when traveling abroad, this is a huge advantage. To me, “staying as if living” is the ultimate luxury.
In Japan, there are surprisingly few accommodation options that allow you to experience something close to everyday life. At best, we have Ryokans or farm stays. However, many Ryokans are high-end luxury spots where “normal life” is hard to glimpse, and farm stays are often disconnected from the urban sightseeing routes convenient for short trips, making them a difficult choice to make casually. I can’t help but wish we had this kind of accommodation in Japan as well.
モロッコでは多くの宿泊を普通のホテルでなく「リャド（Riad）」で過ごした。リャドとは、モロッコにたくさんある中庭付きの住宅を改修したホテルで、モロッコの地元の暮らしが感じられるのがとても良い。かつてはリャドは中庭に噴水や木々を持つ豪邸を指す言葉で、より簡素な中庭付きの家を「ダル（Dar）」と呼んで区別していたようだが、宿泊施設へ転用する例が増えてくるといつの間にか、その響きの良さから「リャド」という呼称が定着し、昨今は一般名詞として浸透している。
モロッコの住宅で、中庭は最も重要な場所になる。外壁に窓がほとんどない代わりに、中庭の吹き抜けから光と風を屋内に引き込む。光を通す簡素な屋根が大抵かけてあって、雨の日もくつろぐことができる。時折迷い込む小鳥の声が心地良い。ゲストを迎え、家族が語らうこの場所は、幾何学模様のタイルや繊細な装飾、鮮やかな織物で彩られ、家の中で一番ゴージャスな場所に仕上げられる。
屋上には洗濯物を干したり辺りを眺めたりできる、建物と同じサイズの広いテラスがあるのも良い。
リャドがこれほどまでに宿として普及しているのは、中庭を囲む回廊に沿って個室が並ぶ構造が、そのまま宿泊施設にしても違和感なく、リノベーションしやすいためだろう。さらに、大規模な高級ホテルにも転用しづらい規模感のため、価格も良心的なものが多いのも海外を訪れる時はほとんどが長期滞在の私にとって、とても嬉しい。プールが付いていたりアメニティが充実しているよりも「暮らすように泊まる」のが一番の贅沢に思う。
日本には、こうした普通の暮らしに近いものを体験できる宿泊の選択肢が驚くほど少ない。しいて言えば旅館や農家民宿ぐらいだろうが、旅館の多くは高級で普通の生活が見えるかも疑問だし、農家民宿は短期旅行に便利な都市の観光動線とは切り離されていて気軽に選択しづらい。日本にも、こうした宿泊の形があればいいのになと思う。
